How long do ferrets live?

In the UK the average lifespan is 8-10 years

Why are my ferrets acting in an aggressive manner?

Ferret aggression has different causes. Ferrets get aggressive towards one another anytime a new ferret is introduced. The ferrets then fight for dominance. Male ferrets also become more aggressive when in season. Their dominance becomes so extreme they may kill other ferrets, even females. Ferrets also become aggressive from some pathological conditions, like adrenal tumors, which cause overproduction of androgens, and enhancement of male traits like aggression.

What does my ferret need for veterinary care?

Ferrets are susceptible to colds, flu, canine distemper, rabies and heartworm. Shots that need to be given annually are for canine distemper and rabies.

Canine Distemper: The reason for vaccinating against canine distemper is very important – You can expose your ferret to this disease without knowing it. Distemper is an airborne disease – that means it could be on your clothes, your shoes, your hands and all it takes is one exposure for your ferret, if not protected. And distemper is 99% fatal. Vaccinating with the feline version gives your ferret no protection at all, it must be the canine variety.

Rabies: The reason for vaccinating against rabies is that every animal which has hair or fur can transmit the rabies virus. It can only be spread through direct contact, but should your ferret bite or scratch someone, they can demand that your ferret be tested. In order to test for rabies, the vet has to kill the animal. Ferrets have better protection under the law now, but it's better to have a current vaccination history. Ferrets have their own Rabies vaccine – Imrab – 3ä .

Heartworm: If you live in an area with mosquitoes, your ferret should be protected against heartworm disease. The product used is usually the feline version of heartworm preventative, and is mostly in a palatable form. Heartworm also can be fatal if untreated. Heartgard for cats is usual prescription.

Colds/Flu: There is no preventative currently for the common cold and flu. If you are sick, then take the proper precautions to prevent spreading to your ferret. They are very susceptible to these viruses and can trade them back and forth with you.

Regular Veterinary visits: A ferret-friendly vet should be located before an emergency occurs. Regular yearly visits for at least shots helps a vet know your ferret and can help catch disease in the early stages. Blood panels and tests for a ferret can also be early indicators of problems and help in treatment and diagnosis of illness.

Changes in weight, loss of hair, lack of energy, loss of appetite or drinking, strange colored feces or diarrhea, bumps that appear on the body, or just the feeling "he is just not acting right" are warning signs that should not be ignored and indications that a vet visit is needed.

What should I feed my ferret? How available should food and water be?

A good diet for a ferret is one that consists of high protein, high fat, and low fiber diet. Just as important as the percentages of protein and fat, are what is used to obtain them. Ferrets are in the genus of Carnivora – carnivores. This means that their diet should consist of primarily meat or meat-based protein, not vegetable or fiber.

Ferrets have a very high metabolism (this is how quickly your body processes food). Average time for complete digestion is 3 – 4 hours, so food should be available at all times, unless otherwise recommended by a vet.

Food bowls: Food bowls that attach to the sides of cages are preferred over heavy ceramic bowls that bored ferrets will push around the cage. Stainless steel bird bowls, Croc-locâ bowls, and other small animal bowls that can be securely fastened to the cage will result in less wasted food.

Water: Water should be available for your ferret at all times – again, based on metabolism. Bottles are preferred over bowls, as ferrets tend to think of bowls in their cages as play toys and revel in pushing them around with their noses. Changing the water daily keeps the water fresh.

How can I stop my ferret from nipping?

Ferrets are similar to puppies and kittens – some behavior, like nipping, is just not appropriate. It's your job to train them on what is acceptable and what is not.

Teething: From age 5 weeks to 16 weeks, a ferret is in the process of losing their baby teeth and gaining their permanent teeth. While this is happening, they become very "mouthy" chewing on everything and nibbling everyone. This is normal, but sometimes they bite too hard.

Part of normal ferrets' play involves biting each other – so unlike when a dog or cat bites you, they don't mean any harm – they want you to play with them!

Training methods: There are a number of methods for training a ferret not to bite. Some may work on your ferret; others may not. The important thing to remember is not lose your temper and to be consistent.

What kind of treats can I feed my ferret?

The important thing to remember about treats is – they ARE treats. They should be limited in the amount and the frequency of giving. Treats can be used to reward good behavior or when they are being especially cute.

Well liked ferret treats can include banana, raisins, cut grapes, Craisinsâ , shredded chicken, tuna, cheap cat food, dehydrated chicken or beef dog treats, unsweetened cereal . All of these things should be given in moderation – for example, no more than 4 or 5 raisins per week.

What is a good cage to use?

A good cage is one that has enough room for the ferret to move around, contain a separate sleeping, eating/drinking, and latrine areas.

Aquariums are not recommended – It does not allow for air circulation (ferrets can be prone to heat exhaustion or stroke), the bottom will absorb urine and feces and be a haven for bacterial/fungal growths which can harm your ferret, and magnify sunlight, so they can get hot inside.

Wooden cages are not the best – wood can also absorb oils, urine and feces and will rot and smell. Treating the wood with polyurethane helps, but must be reapplied regularly.

Wire cages are most often used – they are airy, and come in all sizes and shapes. Minimum recommended size for a single ferret is a two-story cage, measuring 30"h x 30"w x 18"d.

Setting up a cage: Setting up a cage is easy – litter pan, food bowl, water bottle and bedding. Lining the wire bottom of the cage and ramps with carpet, linoleum or vinyl flooring will help protect the ferrets feet and pads while making cleanups easy. Carpet samples or remnants can be purchased for a minimal cost at any carpet/furniture store. Linoleum self-stick squares and vinyl flooring pieces are also inexpensive, although I don't recommend these on the ramp. Outdoor carpeting will also work. Attaching the carpet (once cut to fit) is quick – puncture holes in the carpet and run cable or twist ties through to attach to the wire of the cage.

Food bowls that attach to the sides of cages are preferred over heavy ceramic bowls that bored ferrets will push around the cage. Stainless steel bird bowls, Croc-locâ bowls, and other small animal bowls that can be securely fastened to the cage will result in less wasted food.

Water bottles that hang or attach to the side of the cage come in all shapes, sizes, colors and designs. Easy to use, inexpensive to buy and easy to clean.

What kind of bedding can I use?

Ferrets enjoy being in a dark, enclosed place, so the more bedding in their cage, the better.

You can easily make or create your own bedding. Old towels, sweatpants/shirts, T-shirts, baby receiving blankets all make great bedding for a ferret . Old pillowcases or old baby jumpers can become hanging hammocks with a crawl in area, so your imagination is the only limit.

Design and create your own based on one in the pet store – its not too hard to make them – all it takes is a little material and some sewing skills.

Bedding should be changed on a weekly basis to help control odor and maintain a clean cage.

What is ferret proofing? How do I make my house ferret-friendly?

Ferret proofing is what you do to keep your ferret out of trouble and danger in your home. It may be as simple as preventing access to a room by always keeping the door closed. Installing child-safety locks on your cabinets where poisons or harmful chemicals are kept. Limiting access to such dangerous equipment as the stove, washer/dryer, refrigerator and dishwasher. Removing harmful plants. Removing or preventing access to recliners and sleeper sofas. Ensuring that your ferrets can't escape through a window, door or any access to the outdoors (like a dryer vent).

To start ferret proofing or making your home ferret friendly, take a couple minutes in each room. Lay down on the floor and look around – are there holes in the walls big enough? (ferrets can fit into openings as small as 1" square) Are there any tempting wires or hiding places? Is their access to the wall interiors? What about underneath cabinets? Are their openings under the cabinet that a ferret can squeeze into and be stuck or hidden? Is your boxspring on your bed protected? Furniture? Is there someplace that the ferret can climb and possibly harm themselves? Anyplace the ferret may get stuck and hurt themselves? Are your door stoppers rubber? Are they out of the ferrets' reach?

Understand that ferret-proofing your home is always a "work in progress" – just when you think things are safe and they could never get into any trouble – they prove you wrong. Start slowly, with one room and work your way through the house.

What kind of maintenance care does my ferret need?

Ears: Ears should be cleaned regularly, about once a month. Some commercially available drops to clean them are located at most pet stores. Care to not purchase over-the-counter dog treatments or ear mite treatments should be used. Any notice of dark, smelly wax in the ear of a ferret is usually a sign of ear mites – and you should seek treatment by a vet to prevent them. Nolvasanâ and Oti-clensâ are among many ear wash solutions. Apply the solution to a Q-tip and gently swab the ear – don't go too far into the ear canal as you can damage the ear. Once you are done, put a drop or two in each ear and let the ferret shake their head – this will help remove debris deep in the canal.

Teeth: Teeth should be professionally cleaned by a vet yearly or as needed. Tartar build up on the teeth can lead to infections and tooth loss. A warning sign of disease is any swelling or redness at the gumline; dark or discolored teeth; loss of appetite or tenderness around the mouth. Home care is possible for cleaning/scraping tartar and toothbrushes and paste are available. Most often used are the finger brushes and malt flavored toothpaste.

Nails: Nails should be trimmed about every 2-3 weeks. Locate the "quick" or vein that runs through the nail and take care not to trim too close – toenails can bleed profusely. A styptic pencil, cornstarch or flour will help stop any bleeding. Cat nail clippers or small animal trimmers are most commonly used.